Sightseeing and some much needed downtime

Tuesday: December 7, 2010

Today was a pretty quiet day on the Egypt Mini Term. We started out bright and early and left the cruise ship to visit Edfu Temple.

Edfu Temple is a perfect temple in that most of the stones of the temple are in their original positions. It was buried under sand and there was a village on top of the sand-covered temple. This was important because the sand protected the temple from vandals. It was found at the beginning of the 1800s and a man named Gardner spent more than 40 years writing down all the hieroglyphics on the walls of the temple in order to publish them for everybody to see. 

The temple was called the library (biblioteca) and there are many depictions of Horus the Falcon vs. Uncle Set. The temple was converted into a church after it was found, which further protected the temple from ruin. However, the church often lit fires inside, ruing some of the ceilings due to the black soot from the smoke.

The first sight we saw at the complex was a birth house that had carvings of child feeding and of the mother. This was in front of the open-air area of the temple. Behind this open-aired area was a closed area of the temple.

The temple is for King Tolemay XII, the last Greek king of Egypt. There are many stories chiseled into the stones and many cartushes were left empty to not make any king upset since the temple could have been ruined by the other kings. There were many details in the stories here because it was like a Greek temple. There was a temple here before and Tolemay rebuilt it. There is also a replica of the Holy Arc. They also thought that the Goddess Nuse came everyday and ate the Sun since they didn’t understand what happened to the Sun at night.

The details of this temple were amazing and there were many original colors still painted onto the stones. Some people felt like they were in Greece because of the heavy use of Greek design and architecture in the temple complex.

After visiting Edfu Temple, we took a bus back the cruise ship where we had breakfast. I was very happy that we got back for breakfast because the cruise dining hall has an egg station. Even though I am somewhat picky about my eggs, I was very happy to get a cheese omelet! After a few days of little rest, it was nice to be able to relax on the cruise ship, get some sun, and read on the sundeck. As the ship moved, I was able to watch the landscape of the area change from farm to mountain to farm. We also passed through a lock to lower the ship 7 meters, another form of infrastructure that I have been able to relate to.

That evening we had an early dinner and I ate some chicken. Afterwards, we had a little party of our own on the fourth floor. Zach, our tour guide, organized a bunch of games for us (such as hot potato, spoons, and a dance off). It didn’t feel like a party back at Union, but it was fun nonetheless. The party was called a “Gilabowa Party” because we were encouraged to wear the dresses of the same name. A bunch of people purchased these colorful Egyptian dresses and Professor Ghaly wore his own. By the end of the night, I was pretty tired and started to fall asleep in the party room haha. During this time, our ship had reached its destination: Luxor.

Once again, no rest for the weary! My trip around Egypt continues bright and early tomorrow for a trip to two temples: Abydos and Dandara. Abydos is apparently a little over 2 hours away from Luxor. Talk to you soon!

Quick Question:

How could someone become a priest? Actually, you couldn’t become a priest; it was passed down from generation to generation since they had to protect many secrets.

On The Nile Again...Just can't wait to get on the Nile again

What a difference a day makes! We left Cairo via sleeper train and arrived in Aswan ~620 miles away on Sunday morning, 8:05am. Gone are the days of traffic and garbage in Cairo city, which we traded in for quiet streets and beautiful landscapes across the countryside.

Oh, and don’t ask me why I was excited about the sleeper train for weeks leading up to this trip. It was cramped, loud, and sleep-less. I wound up being on the floor most of the night because the door between the cabins was loose and made noise. Arg. Tired. Either way, we arrived in Aswan (which means “Trade” or “Market”), the last city in Egypt before the country’s boarder with Sudan. It feels much more like Africa here in Aswan since it is hotter and the people have darker skin. For better or worse, Aswan is the same as Cairo in that there are so many vendors trying to sell you something, but I am getting used to the cash/bargaining culture here.

Once we arrived in Aswan, we immediately took a bus ride to the Aswan High Dam. On our way to the High Dam, we crossed the Old English Dam that had been raised numerous times in the past. Going to the High Dam was very exciting for me after learning about dam infrastructure in Sustainable Infrastructure and dam engineering in Environmental Geotechniques, both taught by Professor Ghaly. The Aswan High Dam took 10 years to construct it (1960-1970) and was paid for by nationalizing the Suez Canal and financial assistance from the USSR. The dam is the largest earth and stone dam in the world. It has a factor of safety value against failure of 6, which is very high for a dam. A factor of safety of 1 is the critical safety value and 4 is the normal safety value for an earth and stone dam. The water in the Mediterranean Sea would rise approximately 1 meter if the dam failed, enough to cover many Mediterranean cities. The core of the dam contains low permeable clay with bentonite to ensure that it doesn’t fail. It produces ~1500 megawatts of power, less than 10% of Egypt’s power need. Problems with the dam include it not having a fish ladder (so there are a lot of fish and crocodiles on one side of the dam) and not having a silt gate (denying farmers necessary fertile silt).

We then took a motorboat to Philae Temple on an island in the Nile where elephants were trained for the army. There were many instances of graffiti on this temple and was moved between 1980 and 1985 to its current location because of flooding on the Nile due to the High Dam. It was a beautiful site surrounded by the Nile. Next we went to the unfinished obelisk which shows how the granite was cut for the pyramids. The Nile River used to flood up to the location of this site for easy transport via boat. From there, we went to a Nubian restaurant, which even though I have been having stomach problems, is my favorite restaurant so far. I had chicken (surprise, surprise) with tomato sauce that was cooked in a small bowl. It tasted like chicken catachatorrie. After lunch, we took a boat back to shore to catch another boat that took us to our 5-star hotel on an island in the Nile River. Ghaly gave us 30 minuets from the time of checking into the hotel to get ready for our next excursion to the Nubian Village. While many people complained about having to rush through their showers and not getting an opportunity to rest, many still ventured out on a boat ride to the Nubian Village. It was a nice rural marketplace-type town and we went to a place where people (not me) smoked hookah and got Henna Tatoos. I did, however, hold a baby crocodile (picture to come in later blog—stay tuned). I haggled for an item I have been looking to buy (I can’t disclose what it is because it will ruin the surprise since it is a gift for my parents). The item was originally 80 Egyptian pounds and I got it for 40. We had to buy our own dinner tonight; a bunch of us ate at an Italian place in the hotel and I got pizza for ~$5 USD—dirt cheap.

A beautiful hotel. A fantastic view of the Nile. Get to sleep late, right? No way…I’m waking up at 2:15am to hop on a bus to Abu Simbel to see the great Temple of Ramses the second and Queen Nefertari. Maybe I wont go to sleep for the second night in a row.

Once again, not sure how the internet is going to be over the next few days, so stay tuned! Tons of pictures and stories to come!

Float Like a Butterfly, Sting Like a Bee…Mohammed Ali of Egypt

Writing from an Egyptian sleeper train is harder than I thought it would be. I’m currently in car number 2, cabin 10 traveling overnight to Aswan in Southern Egypt. I guess I over estimated what the sleeper train was going to be like since I pictured large cabins and regular sized beds. There isn’t Internet on the train, so I’m writing as if you are reading it the day of!

Anyway, we hopped onboard the 8pm train from Giza Station. Giza Station reminded me of Jamaica station on the Long Island Rail Road in New York. There were only two tracks but the metro was above the commuter tracks using an elevated concrete structure similar to the one used for the AirTrain to Jamaica. Once on the train, we were soon greeted by a train conductor (or attendant, I’m not quite sure what to call the gentleman).

He gave us dinner (presented in a similar style to the airplane food) made up of rice, chicken, fish, cole slaw, a piece of bread, an orange, and a chocolate éclair-type desert. Honestly, I wasn’t sure if my stomach could handle the chicken yet even though it has gotten somewhat better throughout the day so I had some rice, the bread, and the desert. After we finished dinner, the conductor picked up our trays and set the beds up in the cabins. The seats fold down and a bed comes off the wall for the lower bunk while the upper bunk comes out of the wall. I just hope I can get some sleep tonight on the train but the train shakes back and forth when we get to track that splits in multiple directions In fact, I’m having problems typing as my computer shakes from side to side in my lap.

Earlier today, however, we visited many religious sites in and outside of Cairo. On our way to the Citadel, we could see from our tour bus the City of the Dead. This is an area where there are many mausoleums and in recent years it has been renamed the City of the Dead and Living since people who have immigrated to Egypt have had problems finding homes and therefore use the aboveground monuments at this area. This is a dangerous place to live because this area is at the bottom of a mountain where rocks have collapsed.

We then traveled to the Cairo Citadel, a fort the highest point to protect from Crusadors around 1100-1300 AD. At the Citadel, we saw the al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque that was built in 1335 during the Mamluk period and is of Islamic architecture. This mosque was an open-air facility and we had to take off our shoes. There were many doors (that have since been closed off) for easy escape for fighters who could have been in the mosque as an attack was occurring. This was important because many wars were going on and was considered the “Bloody Time.”

We also saw the Mohammed Ali Mosque (no relation to the boxer) who reigned over Egypt from 1805 to 1848. Mohammed Ali’s mosque was once the most beautiful mosque because of its marble construction, though like most stones in Egypt, they were stolen and recycled. Mosques in general were domed because microphones didn’t exist and they helped control temperature. Many people didn’t understand or like Mohammed Ali since he wanted to modernize Egypt. In fact, people would cut off their fingers to avoid having to join the military. Since there weren’t any women in the military, there wasn’t a place for women to pray. Apparently the Mamluks were causing trouble so Mohammed Ali invited 300 of the most important Mamluks to a party and instead of showing them a good time, he showed them death by shooting them.

We had a buffet lunch on a boat that stays on shore, though my stomach was really hurting me. Lets just say I had some bread, but didn’t eat anything else…I hope this goes away soon…damn, probiotics guy in Port Chester…you were right. I hope this only happens once.

We also visited Old Cairo. We got off our bus in front of a metro station. Cairo has 2 metro lines and is planning on building two more lines. Apparently the metro is pretty nice, though Zach, our tour guide didn’t suggest I get on board a train…too bad. We then visited a Coptic Church. 80% of Christians in Egypt are Coptic. It was made of wood treated with poison to protect against rot. Professor Ghaly, who was a Sunday school teacher, told us about the story of Passover and the plagues that god brought to Egypt. We also went to Ben Ezra Synagogue, the most-visited Jewish site in Cairo, and saw a converted Coptic Church turned Synagogue. This was pretty cool being in temple on a Saturday afternoon, even though I was in Egypt.

Another great and busy day in the Cairo area. Once I get off this bouncy sleeper train, I’ll be in Aswan in southern Egypt. I hear it is a whole different place…but I really need some sleep! Sorry about the lack of pictures, I’m way too nauseous to do that right now! Till next time!

MAIL BAG! (Keep them coming!)
Comments and Questions:

Ian: Thanks! It’s getting better, but I guess I need to be careful over the next few days.

Dad: We left Cairo before the second round of elections but it is noticeable around the city. You can’t go anywhere without seeing an election poster, sign, or banner—all in color with the candidate’s photo. I haven’t seen a fire station or truck yet. There are various types of police: Tourism, Antiquities, Irrigation, Traffic and the Military (a bunch of guys in Cuban-colored getups all got off the train at Giza Station.

Taxes are a major concern of Egyptians. They try to avoid it at any cost. Many of the buildings in Cairo are not finished because old tax law said that property tax was not applicable on unfinished buildings. So 3 floors are finished and the 4^th is just an open roof. I have pictures of this that I will put up at some point. I have no idea what the political parties are here…I want to read the paper everyday but they seem hard to find for the average tourist, nor do I have time.

Jeremy: Chicken from the bone; I wish they had chicken nuggets.

Aunt Mindy: Thanks for reading! Water: don’t drink it, only bottled water. The irrigation canal is also really nasty. No drought in Egypt right now, they are in a good situation with the Aswan Dam. It is however, the low water season in the Nile right now. The high season is from June to August.

I’ve seen little horses, donkeys, water buffalo, and crocodiles.

I have no idea where the girls are…but…there are women, albeit less, peddling goods. I’ll investigate further in the coming days. I haven’t seen them at restaurants at all come to think about it. The housekeeping staff in the Cairo hotel was comprised of men too.

I’m buying local, handmade crafts…or so they say.

Education…I haven’t seen a school yet, but we’ve discussed it while seeing children on the streets. Egypt has a public school system free to all children. Most however, don’t make it past 6^th grade because they need to help their family economically. The public school system in Cairo isn’t great because there are between 60 and 70 students in one classroom. There are also private schools—both international and Egyptian ranging in price from 3,000 Pounds ($600 USD) to 30,000 Pounds ($5,000 USD). International schools are around $7-8,000 USD a year. Government Universities are free-Cairo University and Heliopolis University to name a few. There are also international private universities. Our tour guide, Zach, went to Cairo University where he studied archeology and Helwan University where he received his degree in tourism and hotel management. The kids should be in school…but it seems like they can do whatever they want whenever they want for a quick pound.