Far From One Gustave L. Levy Place

Saturday: December 18, 2010

“Cairo has never looked so good.”

—Melanie Watman as we entered Cairo this evening.

Today was a long day. It started at 1:15am when I received a wake up call and had to get to the bus by 1:45am. I think I slept for an hour—in my jeans and a hooded sweatshirt (I had the hood up the entire time). I couldn’t sleep because of the mosquitoes flying around my head and making a buzzing noise in my ears. Apparently there was a repellent in the room, but Mike and I didn’t realize it. Even with my hood up, I got three bites on my face (Melanie’s room also had the same problem—and she got bites on her face, legs, and back).

Why did we wake up so early? We woke up soon after going to sleep to climb Mt. Sinai to see the sunrise at 5:50am at the mountain’s peak. With flashlights in hand and wearing many layers of warm clothes (it was pretty cold at the beginning of the night as well as at the top of the mountain), we were led up the mountain by a Bedouin (pronounced: Bedwin), a type of person who lives in the desert. This man is employed by the Egyptian government to lead groups to the top of Mt. Sinai in order to give them job opportunities and ensure that touring companies don’t take advantage of visitors.

The group was moving up the mountain in the dark at a pretty swift pace. Melanie and I decided to take it easy up the mountain (we each have a history of knee problems). As we climbed the mountain, there were dozens of people offering camel rides up the mountain. A good number of non-Union people paid at least 80 pounds for this service but personally I would have been scared to ride a camel in the dark up steep slopes. There were rest stops along the path with drinks and candy, but I didn’t buy anything. After a quick rest stop here and there (anything longer than 5 minutes would have caused our body temperatures to drop), we continued on to the top of the mountain. I often looked up at the stars and I’ve never seen them so bright—it’s too bad the camera couldn’t capture these images. The ground was pretty rocky and I often was looking down so I wouldn’t trip or step in camel dung.

At the 2/3 mark, we had to climb ~750 steps to get to the top of Mt. Sinai. Even with our moderate pace, we caught up with the rest of the Union group and arrived at the top at 5:30am. I didn’t see any tablets, nor did I see Moses. Many aren’t sure of the exact location of Mt. Sinai, but this spot was chosen after it was geolocated using texts and historical background (not truly hard evidence). We spent 45-50 minutes at the top of the mountain to watch the sun rise. After hot days in Sharm, I quickly found myself shivering while wearing 4 layers, two hoods, and winter gloves. Check out this video below!

After watching the sun peak through the clouds and avoiding the numerous vendors, we descended the mountain and got to the bottom around 9am.

The Union group met at the entrance of St. Catherine’s Monastery where we then entered as a group. Interestingly, St. Catherine herself had problems with the ruler of Alexandra regarding religion among other things and was beheaded. Later, a monk saw St. Catherine’s angel and was instructed to bury her in its present location. There are many churches in the area, including one on the top of Mt. Sinai. During the 3rd/4th centuries, the Bedouins living in the area would attack the monastery for food and water and killed monks while doing so. In order to protect themselves, they built walls around the monastery for protection, similar to the walls that surround castles. The wells in the monastery apparently were used during the time of Moses, according to Zach. The monastery is also home to the burning bush. This brush is thought of to be the actual burning bush that is mentioned in the Old Testament because this location has been passed on from generation to generation, pieces of papyrus say this is the correct location, it was there in 642 AD when the Arabs came to Egypt, and pure faith.

After spending time admiring the burning bush, we returned to our hotel, had breakfast, and got back on the road to head back to Cairo. On our way back to the capital city of Egypt, we made three stops. The first stop was a Moses Water Spring, a well-type structure near the Suez Canal made from stones of the Roman time.

The second stop was an open-air Egyptian military museum depicting the events of the 1973 war between Egypt and Israel. This site was 3.5 km from Moses Springs. Professor Ghaly was the translator for the special military guide who showed us around the site. He prefaced his translating by saying this is the Egyptian side and there might not be agreement. Before 1973, Israel controlled the Sinai Peninsula and in 1973, Egypt regained control. We saw an Israeli-built shelter made from reinforced concrete and baskets with stones to absorb cannon ball hits that housed 6-inch caliber cannons. The guide explained that the shelter contains an Israeli flag—and that the 6-pointed star represents the 6 countries Israel wanted to conquer, the top blue strip represents the Nile River, and the bottom blue stripe represents the Tigris/ Euphrates Rivers. I’m not sure that I agree with this explanation being that the Israeli flag was designed in the 1800s, long before the creation of Israel in 1948, but I heard what the military personnel had to say.

We then left the museum and continued our ride back to Cairo. In order to move from Asia to Africa, we took a tunnel that went under the Suez Canal. Unlike tunnels in the New York City area (that were bored from hard rock), the Suez tunnel went through soft sand and needed reinforcement. It is located 10 meters below the canal and is ~4km long. There is a toll to use this tunnel—5 pounds (less than $1) for cars and 10 pounds for buses. After another hour in the bus, we arrived in Cairo and had dinner at a local restaurant where I had chicken and French fries. Next, we checked into our hotel, the Mercure, which was the first hotel we stayed in while in Egypt—we’ve come full circle. Moving around the country has been very exciting, though it is nice to return to where we started three weeks ago. After a night in a hotel like last night, Cairo was a sight for tired and weary eyes.

Tomorrow we take a long bus ride north to Alexandria for a day trip and return to Cairo in the evening. Any questions!? Ask! I’ll answer them! Thanks for reading!

**One Gustave L. Levy Place is the location of Mt. Sinai Hospital in New York City**

A trip to the Valley and Mohammed's Shop

Thursday: December 9, 2010

Hello from the Steigenberger Nile Palace in Luxor, Egypt! We checked out from our cruise ship early this morning and headed to the Valley of the Kings. Everybody, including myself, was excited for this part of the tour because it is home to King Tut’s Tomb!

The Valley of the Kings contains 63 tombs in the complex and was built in the mountains instead of pyramids. The ancient Egyptians stopped using pyramids as tombs because they were easy targets for tomb robbers. They thought that the tombs would be safer if they were hidden in the valleys and mountains…and they were correct! They also chose this area because they thought the mountains looked like pyramids and were a way to get to the second life. The ticket we were provided with allowed us to visit 3 tombs and King Tut’s tomb was an extra ticket costing 50 pounds, which I paid for without hesitation (good thing I did!) Unfortunately, we couldn’t take pictures while in the tombs. They were very strict about this and I saw many people trying to sneak a picture who quickly had their cameras taken from them. One guy in our group got caught taking a picture and they erased his memory card—hurts.

The security during the time of the construction of the Valley of the Kings was high for ancient times. These officials were so afraid of tomb robbers that the people working on the tombs were required to stay at the West Bank and lived in an area called the “City of the Workers.” The government gave the workers land in this area as well as a few animals for food. Another perk of moving to the West Bank to work was being able to construct your own tomb in the area, which is not something ordinary people commonly had. The houses in the area surrounding the Valley today are similar to those during ancient times as they are both made of mud and stone. The government is moving these homes in order to excavate underneath them for artifacts.

Zach told us a story about the Valley of the Kings where the Abdesurul family discovered many artifacts in the area before it became a popular site for archeologists and tourists. The family would make trips to the Valley to get artifacts and sell them to various collections for money. One of the family members got sick and couldn’t go with the rest of the family and was upset when he didn’t get a cut of the money. He then told everybody about what the family was doing. While this was a long time ago, a member of this family is now a consultant to the Egyptian Antiquities Council because of the secrets that have been passed down from generation to generation within his family.

In the 1800s they found 25 royal mummies transported by security people that are now at the Egyptian museum in Cairo, which I’ll see towards the end of the trip.

Apparently they are still excavating 26 temples and are looking for 500 more.

Zach couldn’t lecture in the tombs so he told us to be on the lookout for a few things:

• Humans and animals sitting correctly meant that they were a good spirit while figures that were upside down, had knives in them, or had no heads meant that they were bad spirits.
• A book of the Dead—a prayer to help a spirit avoid danger while moving from the 1st to 2nd lives.
• A solar boat—with good gods to help one get to the second life.
• Lots of snakes.

The first of the three tombs we visited was the tomb of Thutmoses III. It was built during the 18th dynasty and was discovered by Victor Loret in 1898. Thutmoses III was a great conquer who ruled Egypt in 1504. He was a king who thought of himself as a human instead of being god-like (which restarted with Ramses II). He also was the first to bring modern chickens and pomegranates to Egypt…and yes, there are KFCs in Egypt. Thutmoses was considered the “Napoleon” of Egypt. In order to reach his tomb, we had to climb a large set of stairs up the mountain and then descend 60 ft to reach the various rooms of the tomb. It was very very cool to see the colors on the wall—though these were different, they were drawings instead of carvings. We also can’t understand these symbols since they are different than traditional hieroglyphics. The ancient Egyptians apparently preferred to have deep underground tombs to protect the artifacts inside, but this was not always possible.

The second tomb we saw was the tomb of King Ramses III. It was constructed during the 20th dynasty. It is somewhat small because he didn’t live long enough for the workers to completely finish the tomb. The third tomb was of King Ramses IX. It was constructed during the 20th dynasty as well.

The fourth—and most exciting tomb—we visited was King Tut’s tomb.

Howard Carter found the tomb of King Tutankhumun (Tut) on his last day of searching in the Valley in 1922. His tomb is very popular because it was found almost entirely intact. Surprisingly, his tomb is the 2nd smallest tomb in Egypt. It was built during the 18th Dynasty. The tomb didn’t have any colors. When you get to the bottom of the tomb, we saw Tut’s mummy (so cool!) and his sarcophagus. The tomb is undergoing a study to determine the best way to preserve the tomb for future generations. Apparently Tut wasn’t famous earlier because he became King at a young age and died ~19 years old. He had malaria but he died from an infection he got after he fell off a chariot. Archiologist knew he had a bad leg because they found ~110 canes with him in his tomb. While the rest of Tut’s tomb lacks color on the walls, the area that has the sarcophagus is the only area with color.

The tomb of King Ramses, another famous king, was found to be in very bad condition because of the runoff from the mountains. It was not open for tours while we were there.

After the Valley of the Kings, we traveled via bus to the Temple of Hatshepsut “Hot Chicken Soup.” The ancient Egyptians weren’t accepting of her at first because they weren’t used to a female leader. In order to help people get used to her, she started dressing like a man and had darker skin (women were considered to have light skin). She ruled for 22 years…wow. She had a strong army but didn’t use it for wars; instead she used it for expeditions for trees, plants, and flowers from other countries. In fact, she had a botanical garden in front of her temple—two small tree stumps (~3,500 years old) are evidence of this, which we saw.

We also visited an Alabaster Shop where they make and sell handmade stone carvings. They were a pretty entertaining group as they sang, chanted, and joked as the manager told us how everything was made. The workers all talked in unison--sure it was scripted, but it was hilarious. It is a skill passed down from fathers and grandfathers originally for religious reasons, but now more for souvenirs for tourists. The figures come in white, brown, green, and glow-in-the-dark.

My stomach has been getting better and I ate the chicken at the Egyptian-styled restaurant the group went to. They had spicy potatoes, which I liked a lot. I used the sauce from the potatoes and put them on my rice and chicken. In terms of my stomach these days, it is a day-to-day situation. One day I feel normal and the next day not so much. I’m being very conservative with the foods I’m eating. Don’t worry! It’s not only me getting sick! It seems most of the people on this trip have been sick at one point or another—sometimes worse than what I’ve had. Luckily, I haven’t missed anything because of my stomach issues.

We then got back on the bus and traveled to our 5-star hotel located in downtown Luxor. Before we could enjoy the numerous amenities it offers (tennis courts, shops, entertainment at night, swimming, and napping), we dropped our luggage off (it was around 4pm) in our rooms and headed downstairs to the dock where two sail boats were waiting for us. It was really relaxing to sit on the boat and just enjoy the sights and landscape of the River Nile. We got to see the sunset and had a nice breeze pushing us along. Apparently there is a law that you can’t sail on the Nile after 5pm, which we soon found out from the Nile Police riding around on their motorized dinghy.

It took us awhile to get back to shore as the wind died down, but once we did, a bunch of us headed out to El Souk—The Market, about a 10 minute walk from our hotel. We took a group picture in front of Luxor Temple, which we will visit tomorrow, and then a good number of people rushed across the street to the Golden Arches—McDonalds. I didn’t get any and continued down the street to the market place. There were so many shops in the market place and it was somewhat intimidating. Melanie got some scarves and I helped her haggle them down in the store. As I was walking down the market with Melanie, we were waiting for our friends Mike and Elana. A man named Mohammed asked me if I was American and if I could write Merry Christmas and Happy New Year on a business card so he could write it to his friend in the United States. I believed him for a second and said sure. He wanted me to come into his store to write it down, but I refused to do this and told him to come to me. He wasn’t really happy about this, but I told him that I was also looking for my friends. I told him I would come back after we found them…and sure enough…when we were walking past his shop, he spotted me and called my name, except Melanie and I told Mohammed that we were Mike and Elana! So he sucked us into his store and Melanie and I found stuff we wanted to get anyway at some point. I haggled him down from his original price of 280 pounds to 90 pounds…student discount, yeah right. The entire time he was calling me Michael, hahah. If I go back to the market tomorrow--oy.

We then walked back to the hotel around 9pm and ate at an Italian place in the hotel where I got pizza.
Tomorrow is the final major sightseeing day as we see Karnack and Luxor Temples. I’m tired these days—but oh well, its really interesting to learn and see these sites.

Sorry about the lack of Internet this week, its been tough with no blogs, emails, communication with the world! Talk to you soon!

Some other notes:

• There is no evidence that it was King Ramses II who dealt with Moses (i.e. Passover).
• How did they get light into the tombs during ancient times?
• Not fire—it would have had too much carbon monoxide/soot associated with it
• Might have used mirrors to get light down there
• Mountain made of limestone—good tomb material because it is very dense and can take higher loads. It also absorbs humidity—a major reason they close certain tombs for periods of time.
• There are concession areas at all of the places we visit—The rent at the Valley of the Kings to sell Pringles, ice cream, and chips? $62,000 USD/month! Yes, that is not a mistake! The manager says they are losing money and have one year left on their contract.
• A few days ago an Egypt Mini-Term 1st occurred! A couple on the trip got engaged. Congrats and mazel tov to them!

Little Chief Tunis' Corner

What is the Jewish population in Egypt? --Not sure what the exact number is, but it is very very very slim. Kinda get the impression that they don't discuss it if they do. Our tour guide is friends with two Jewish families.

How's that working out for them? Decently, I guess. In addition to the Shul I visited, there is an active one in Cairo. 

[I know that the Egyptians are proud of their ancient history, but is any of it incorporated into their modern way of life, other than it being the source of much needed tourism income? Mom wants to know if the site where Pharaoh's daughter found Moses was ever identified and, if so, is it marked? How wide is the Nile? How deep? Is it clean enough to go swimming in? Are there reeds along its bank?]--Saved for when I have more time to write!